The thirteen desserts of Christmas

On the evening of 24 December, Provençal families share the gros souper, a meatless “lean” meal served before midnight mass. It ends with a table of desserts laid out all at once for everyone: the thirteen desserts. The number recalls Christ and his twelve apostles.

The list varies from town to town and family to family, and the number thirteen only really became fixed in the early twentieth century. A few classics nonetheless appear almost everywhere.

The four mendiants

Dried figs, raisins, almonds and walnuts (or hazelnuts) stand for the four so-called “mendicant” religious orders. The colour of each fruit is said to recall that of their habits: Dominicans, Franciscans, Carmelites and Augustinians.

The pompe à l’huile

This is a brioche-like flatbread flavoured with orange-flower water and olive oil, called gibassier in some towns. Tradition says it should be broken by hand, like the bread of the Last Supper, rather than cut with a knife.

White nougat and black nougat

White nougat, made with honey and almonds, and black nougat, made with caramelised honey and harder, are often set side by side, like good and evil.

Fresh fruit and sweets

Add dates, winter fruit (mandarins, oranges, pears, stored grapes) and, depending on the family, calissons from Aix, quince paste, oreillettes (fried pastries) or candied fruit.

Three days on the table

The desserts stay out until 27 December, so everyone can help themselves at any hour. They are part of the long Calendale cycle, described in the seasons section.